Specialized High Performance Engine Accessories for your Dodge Dakota/Durango/Ram/PT Cruiser and Jeep Vehicles
SpeedTweaks - Tips and Tricks
More tips and tricks coming soon....
Disconnect NEG Battery Terminal
Turn the ignition key to the START position and hold for 15-20 seconds
Release key (OFF) and reconnect the battery
If you change items such as the Throttle Body, Headers, Ignition System (or any internal parts with aftermarket, performance parts), then you should reset the PCM. Items such as: Plug Wires, Cap, Rotor, Spark Plugs, Muffler, and Air Filter (not intake...filter) don't require this at all. The PCM will gradually relearn as you drive anyway...that takes about 200 miles for a complete long-term learn.
How to Clean the IAC Solenoid:
This is recommended at every Tune-Up to prevent excess carbon buildup on the IAC plunger. In some cases, you'll notice a slightly erratic idle quality. This is the first step in taking care of that problem. IAC = Intake Air Control (Solenoid).
Remove the Air Hat from the Throttle Body
Disconnect the sensor harness from the IAC Solenoid (Rear of Throttle Body)
Remove the two Torx-25 Screws
Remove the IAC Solenoid (Be careful not to lose the rubber O-Ring)
Spray some Carb/TB Cleaner in the IAC port on the Throttle Body and let it sit
Spray some Carb/TB Cleaner on the tip of the IAC Solenoid and wipe clean (Do NOT forcefully twist or push the plunger - You will damage the Solenoid. Wipe very gently.)
Spray a little bit more Carb/TB Cleaner in the IAC port on the Throttle Body and wipe clean with a thin/lint-free rag
Reinstall the IAC Solenoid (Make sure you don't lose the rubber gasket on the solenoid)
Reinstall the sensor connector and airhat
Start the engine and let idle for about 1 minute.
How to clean your Throttle Body:
Most people think that cleaning the throttle body requires a can of Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner and a quick "wash" of the bores. This may work, but only washes the dirt and cleaner down into your intake manifold where it can puddle up and break down the belly-pan gasket. Then, it also is pulled into the combustion chamber where is can foul up the spark plugs.
The proper way to clean your throttle body is to remove it from the engine (you'll need a small pan, some compressed air, and a new throttle body gasket for this procedure):
1. Remove your air hat from the throttle body
2. Disconnect the sensor connectors (TPS, MAP, and IAC)
3. Remove the four throttle body bolts
4. Lift the throttle body up and away from the intake manifold (place a rag over
the manifold opening to prevent anything from falling inside)
5. Remove the three sensors (Do not drop them)
6. Remove the three screws for the throttle linkage (Not required...can be done
with linkage attached)
7. Place the throttle body in a small pan and spray Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner
in the bores, underside passages, and ports. Let soak for about a minute.
8. Clean the IAC Solenoid - Refer to "How to clean the IAC
Solenoid"
9. Spray some more Carb/Throttle Body Cleaner in the bores and ports of the
throttle body
10. Wipe clean with a lint free rag (baby diaper works well) and blow out all
the ports with some compressed air (a small can from a electronics store works
just fine).
11. Reinstall all sensors, then reinstall on your vehicle with a new Throttle
Body gasket (don't forget to remove the rag)
Initial Performance Recommendations:
Always start with the basics first. Your engine (no matter who built it) is an air pump (plain and simple). The more efficiently you get the air in and the more efficiently you get it out, the more power you'll make. Simple Intake and Exhaust modifications are always the least expensive route and can even increase your fuel economy. Not to get into the technical details, here's a simple list to follow:
Install a Cold Air Kit (K&N, Intense Performance, PaceSetter, etc.)
Install a Performance Muffler (Flowmaster, Dynomax, and Gibson are just three of many out there)
Install a 180 Degree Thermostat (Keeping the engine slightly cooler makes more power. The factory 195+ T'Stats are mainly for emissions purposes)
A good set of Spark Plug wires, Brass Contact Cap and Rotor, and a quality set of plugs will always help out your ignition system (DIS, or "Distributor-Less" ignition systems not included in this recommendation)
Run a quality fuel. Chevron or Exxon are good choices...just stay away from the "Mom and Pop" stations. Putting old or dirty fuel in your tank won't help your engine. Also, try to stay away from your favorite gas station when they're filling up the tanks. Any sediment on the bottom of the tank will be mixed in with the new fuel and may get into your tank.
Those are just the basics. There are many options on ignition systems, throttle bodies, headers, etc., but it all comes down to "What goes in, must come out". Take care of that department first and you're on your way to making more power.
There's a lot of "Hocus Pocus" on who's oil is better and Synthetic vs. "Dino" Oil. We've run Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Mobil-1, Castrol, Valvoline, and a few others just to see what would happen. What ultimately happened was that we were a few dollars shorter in our pocket book...with the exception of the Royal Purple oil (mileage went up .5mpg and overall engine operation was much smoother and more responsive). If you change your oil at the recommended intervals (normally 3500-5000 miles), a good Non-Synthetic oil won't hurt your engine one bit (unless it's low-grade "El-Cheapo" oil). If you want those last few HP out of your engine or race your vehicle every weekend, switch over to Synthetic Oil. It will last slightly longer in your engine but does cost more than regular oil. Which do we recommend? We're not going to recommend any since it causes problems between vendors and personal preferences.
While the factory and factory replacement spark plugs work, the Magnum engines have shown slightly better performance with the Autolite 3923 Spark Plugs. The Autolite 3923's are a standard tip spark plug that is one heat range colder than stock, as compared to the extended "Special Power Tip" plugs that the engine came with. Why the difference? A standard tip plug is less susceptible to detonation, is a good replacement for modified Magnum engines, and work very well with modified engines as well...especially when using Nitrous or a Supercharger. In some cases, the Autolite 3923's also showed a 4-5HP difference at the rear wheels on the Dyno. (The test was performed with new OEM Spark plugs vs. the Autolite 3923's. No changes to the engine and the plugs were tested on the same day under the same conditions.)
The O2 sensor(s) on your vehicle are designed to sense Oxygen in the exhaust stream. When they sense too much "air", they richen up the mixture and when the don't sense enough "air", they lean out the fuel mixture. Under normal conditions, they should last you 60-80K miles. However, we all drive in varying traffic conditions so the life of the O2 sensor is diminished. We recommend that you change the O2 sensor(s) every 60K miles to keep your engine running in optimal condition. (This includes the regular service intervals and tune-up schedules.)
Which exhaust system is better:
Many people have debated this and a lot of it has to do with loyalty to a company label. We have personally run Dynomax, MagnaFlow, Flowmaster, Ravin, JBA mufflers and exhaust systems, and found that the single exit systems were slightly better than the dual exit systems...on the Dyno and at the track. The reason for this is that on a single exit system, the exhaust pulses don't fight each other on the exit.
They all sounded good, all performed much better than stock, and all had a slightly different price tag on them. Which one should you use? The one that sounds and looks the best to you. We all have different tastes when it comes to our idea of what sound good so base your opinion on the sound quality...not the advertised flow ratings or who sponsors what race.
A brief note on the advertised flow ratings of mufflers: Mufflers are rated on a Flow bench. This uses a regulated flow rather than the random pulses found in the exhaust stream which doesn't say anything in regards to the performance quality on street driven (or weekend racer) vehicles. So why buy a 1000+CFM muffler that you can see through rather than the chambered style? If you want to spend the money, like the sound, and own a race car (Bracket, Drag, etc.)...by all means, go for it. Just remember, just because you can see through it doesn't mean its any better than a chambered.
Most people choose the MSD Ignition Systems as their "High Performance" ignition system. There's nothing wrong with them and the only reason we don't provide the MSD systems on this site is that MSD doesn't seem to want to work with the smaller shops on pricing. If you do decide to run with the MSD system, make sure that you get the following parts with your order:
MSD Tach Adapter Harness - P/N# 8910. It prevents Code-43 from tripping in the PCM. "Diagnostic Trouble Code P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction, Peak Primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time."
MSD Universal Harness - P/N# 8873. It minimizes the excessive cutting of the factory wiring harness.
You can download the MSD 8910 Instructions here: MSD 8910 Tach Adapter (Adobe PDF Format)
The Accel 300+ System is a complete "Plug and Play" system but does require a few pieces if you only choose to run with the Accel Coil that's designed as a factory replacement fit (#140021). You'll need to pick up the adapter harness for the '98 and newer Dakota/Durango/Ram Trucks. The part number is: 140021AH. This coil and adapter is included in the Accel 300+ Digital Ignition System Kit for the Dodge trucks.
"Budget Modifications" for your V6/V8:
Total cost of the modifications listed is around $150-$200. You can also add a V6 to V8 Throttle Body conversion kit to your V6 for an extra $210 + Shipping...we carry the kits in stock.
Poor idle with big cam (Less than 112 degrees on Lobe Separation)
If you install a larger cam that has a Lobe Separation of less than 112 degrees, you will notice a very poor idle (sometimes dies at the light) and running too rich at idle as well. This is caused by the MAP signal being too low due to the cam. The MAP vacuum at idle (with a stock cam) is 12-13" at the MAP port on the throttle body. With a larger cam, that has a 108-110 degree Lobe Separation, the vacuum at the MAP port is 6-8". This is too low and will cause poor idle qualities. Also...make sure you set the distributor in properly as there is only ONE WAY that is correct. Set the distributor index (fuel sync) at 4 (+/-1) after the initial break-in (fire up).
Plug the MAP port on the throttle body and relocate the MAP line to manifold vacuum (should be about 12-13" at idle). This will simulate the factory signal and your idle quality will be back to normal. There is no adverse affect on the cruise or WOT performance with this modification.
Recommendation: Select a Cam with 112-114 degrees Lobe Separation. They are MAP friendly.
For those who don't know, the 4.7L comes with two flavors of throttle bodies. The '99-'00 models use a 65mm and the '01 models use a 68mm throttle body. You can easily swap out the later model 68mm throttle body for your performance-limiting 65mm without any problems. You can tell which one you have by looking at the stamped number on the throttle plate. "65" = 65mm / "68" = 68mm
Throttle Body Spacers (Primarily the "Helix" style):
These spacers do not provide any gains in HP at all. They claim to increase TQ and MPG but we tested one and it gained nothing. The Dyno showed no gains in HP or TQ. We also had contacted one of the manufacturers for their comments on them and here's the direct quote (from email):
--------------------------------------------
From: AirAid Info
Subject: Re: AIRAID.COM Contact Form
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 09:20:36 -0700
Dear Sir, thank you for your inquiry in our products. The spacer makes no HP on
the Dyno. It makes all of it's power in torque in the low end. If you haven't
noticed any power on the Dyno or the track then it's doing what it's supposed
to. You would not see any gains down the 1/4 mile or increases on the Dyno. The
idea of the spacer is to improve overall drivability and fuel mileage. In most
cases when people install a bolt on part they expect better mileage and power,
what happens is they are into the throttle a lot more than before trying to test
performance and that's when the decrease in mileage happens.
Sincerely,
<Airaid Technician>
-------------------------------------------
Points to look at:
So...it doesn't make any more HP, is not supposed to help in 1/4 mile performance (or on the Dyno), and is mainly for mileage and bottom end Torque. Well, Dyno's show TQ figures and there were no changes, mileage stayed the same, and 1/4 mile performance wasn't affected on the several others who have tried it (including us). They also are still not able to explain how the spacer keeps the swirl effect through the two turns (90 degree and 45 degree) in the intake plenum of the Dodge Ram/Dakota/Durango manifolds.
While the Throttle Body Spacer showed no gains on the 3.9/5.2/5.9L Magnum engines, the 4.7L engines have been reported to show noticeable gains from the spacer. Why? It's a much more efficient intake system with less restrictions than the Magnum engines. It may work just fine for the 4.7L crowd but we'll look into this at a later date for Dyno and long term MPG testing.
Which Thermostat temperature should I use:
The Magnum engines respond very well to a 180 degree thermostat. The factory thermostat is a 195 degree which is great for emissions but not so great for performance. Changing it out to a 180 degree model will keep the engine slightly cooler which will help make more power. Please be aware that just swapping the thermostat, without any other modifications, won't gain you a whole lot of extra power. All modifications work together and most will complement each other. Example: 180 T'Stat used with a Cold Air Kit, Headers, and a good Cat-Back system. The 180 degree thermostats will not affect your emissions output either.
What Gap to set your Sparkplugs at:
This is a common question with an easy answer. Whatever the factory recommends for the stock ignition system on your vehicle.
If you are running an aftermarket coil and/or ignition system (MSD, Accel, etc,), normally you can open the gap up by .005" - .010" more than factory specifications. However, with Supercharging or Nitrous applications, you would want to reduce the gap about .005" due to the higher cylinder pressures that occur with both Superchargers and Nitrous. If you plan on using the Autolite 3923 sparkplugs in your Magnum engine, stick with the same guidelines.
Open and Closed Loop Operation:
There are 7 different modes (conditions) that are used (besides Key-ON and Key-Off mode).
Here is a table of what sensors are monitored and what determines the
mode. One thing to remember, under OPEN LOOP Operation, the O2 Sensor(s)
are ignored by the PCM.
| Engine Start-Up Mode (OPEN LOOP) Battery Voltage Coolant Temp Crank Position Intake Air Temp (IAT) MAP TPS Starter Motor Relay Cam Position |
Engine Warm-Up Mode (OPEN LOOP) Battery Voltage Coolant Temp Crank Position Intake Air Temp (IAT) MAP TPS Cam Position Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics Only) |
| Idle mode (Once at Operating Temp: CLOSED LOOP) A/C Select (if equipped) A/C Request (if equipped) Battery Voltage Coolant Temp Crank Position Intake Air Temp (IAT) MAP TPS Cam Position O2 Sensors Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics Only) |
Cruise Mode (CLOSED LOOP) A/C Select (if equipped) A/C Request (if equipped) Battery Voltage Coolant Temp Crank Position Intake Air Temp (IAT) MAP TPS Cam Position O2 Sensors Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics Only) |
| Acceleration Mode (OPEN LOOP) A/C Select (if equipped) A/C Request (if equipped) Battery Voltage Coolant Temp Crank Position Intake Air Temp (IAT) MAP TPS Cam Position Vehicle Speed Sensor Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics Only) |
Deceleration Mode (OPEN LOOP) A/C Select (if equipped) A/C Request (if equipped) Battery Voltage Coolant Temp Crank Position Intake Air Temp (IAT) MAP TPS Cam Position Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Automatics Only) Vehicle Speed Sensor |
| Wide Open Throttle - WOT (OPEN LOOP) Battery Voltage Coolant Temp Crank Position Intake Air Temp (IAT) MAP TPS Cam Position |
|
Emissions Warranty for 1995 and Newer Vehicles:
EPA Website: EPA Environmental Fact Sheet
Will aftermarket parts void my warranty:
This is a common question with an easy answer: NO.
Federal law sets forth requirements for warranties and contains a number of provisions to prevent vehicle manufacturers, dealers and others from unjustly denying warranty coverage. With regard to aftermarket parts, the gist of the law is that warranty coverage cannot be denied simply because such parts are present on the vehicle, or have been used. The warranty coverage can be denied only if the aftermarket part caused the malfunction or damage for which warranty coverage is sought. Disputes in this area usually boil down to arguments over facts and technical opinions, rather than arguments over interpretations of the law.
You can read more about this at: http://www.sema.org/warranty
TV Cable Adjustments (V6/V8 Magnum Engines)
** Does not apply to the 4.7L Engine as it is
electronically controlled **
|
|
GENERAL INFORMATION
The transmission throttle valve is operated by the valve body throttle
lever. The throttle lever is actuated by a cable connected to the engine
throttle body lever. A lock button at the engine end of the cable provides for
cable adjustment.
A correctly adjusted throttle valve cable, will cause the throttle lever on the
transmission to move simultaneously with the throttle body lever from the idle
position. Proper adjustment allows simultaneous movement without causing the
transmission throttle lever to move ahead of, or lag behind the throttle body
lever.
CHECK
PROCEDURE
Alternative connections for your A/F Meter:
Most people will drill a hole in their floor board to install the wire from their Air/Fuel Meter to the O2 sensor (in front of the Catalytic Converter). First of all, you don't need to drill any holes at all. Second, you can use the wire harness at the PCM instead for a cleaner installation. On the '97 - '99 Dodge Dakota models, it's the 18ga. Orange w/Tan stripe wire. This is for the forward O2 signal to the PCM. Just carefully strip away a small section of the insulation from the Orange/Tan wire and, preferably, solder the A/F Meter signal wire to it. Then, put a small dap of silicone over the solder joint and tape it back up with your favorite electrical tape.
However, the best way still is to connect an Air Fuel meter is with it's own O2 sensor.
Crower Rocker Arm Installation:
Note: Initial fire-up may produce tappet noise for a short period of time until lifters have a chance to adjust themselves. If tappet noise continues for more than 30 seconds, shut engine off for about 2 minutes. Start engine again and let idle. Tappet noise should be going away or be gone. Caution: If after 3 or 4 starts and stops (with 2 minute intervals in between) the tappet noise is still there, repeat the rocker arm adjustment steps.
Test drive vehicle, keeping the engine below 4500 rpm for the first 50 miles to allow proper rocker break-in and allow the vehicle’s computer to adjust to the new modifications.
V10 Magnum: Must remove upper half of intake manifold. Requires new upper plenum gasket (#530006838). If you have any questions regarding installation, do not hesitate to call Crower’s Tech Line at 619-422-1191.
What Flowmaster is best for my V6:
You have several options on the V6 from Flowmaster for custom exhaust systems:
Flowmaster 50-Series SUV: 525552 (2.5" IN/Dual 2.25"OUT)
Flowmaster 50-Series SUV: 52555 (Single 2.5" IN/OUT)
Flowmaster 50-Series Performance: 425502 (2.5" IN/Dual 2.0" OUT)
Flowmaster 40-Series Performance: 42540 (Single 2.5" IN/OUT)
Flowmaster "Delta-Force" Series: 425509 (Single 2.5" IN/OUT)
Spreadsheets for your PC or PDA:
These three spreadsheets are in Excel format but are small enough to fit on your PDA. We really like the TinySheet utility from Iambic Software and highly recommend it for Palm users.
How to bleed the Brake System (Base Instructions):
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality fluid
meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a
sealed container at all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while bleeding. Air in the system will
be compressed into small bubbles that are distributed throughout the hydraulic
system. This will make additional bleeding operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid during bleed operations. An
empty cylinder will allow additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the following sequence:
MANUAL BLEEDING
PRESSURE BLEEDING
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully when using pressure equipment.
Do not exceed the tank manufacturer’s pressure recommendations. Generally, a
tank pressure of 15-20 PSI is sufficient for bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and purge air from the tank lines
before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cylinder adapter. The wrong
adapter can lead to leakage, or drawing air back into the system. Use adapter
provided with the equipment or Adapter 6921.
I want to run Nitrous on my V6/V8:
You can run a basic Nitrous system (NX preferred for the Mopar Magnums) without any modifications but the recommended modifications will provide you with not only better all around performance, but also improved performance with the Nitrous.
Those are the modifications that will not only pep up your stock V6/V8, but will also help the Nitrous work much more efficiently. Adding Nitrous to a stock intake, exhaust is not going to give you the full effect/performance...but it will "work".
Can I Adjust my Ignition Timing
Simple answer...NO. The base (initial) ignition timing is NOT adjustable. Do not attempt to adjust ignition timing by rotating the distributor. All ignition timing functions are controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
A DRB-III or equivalent scan tool may be used to verify base timing and electronic timing advance. Refer to the Scan Tool instructions for procedure. Fuel synchronization can be verified and set by rotating the distributor. Refer to the Distributor Removal/Installation/Checking Distributor Position.
Some people have modified their crank position sensors to allow for minor timing adjustments...this is NOT an easy modification and requires a scanner to get the timing set properly. We do NOT recommend this at all.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Vehicles may exhibit surging, light bucking, or intermittent engine misfiring. This will most likely occur when the vehicle is at operating temperature, and under a light load at approximately 2000 RPM. This condition may be caused by a mis-indexed distributor. The following procedure is an alternative to the indexing procedure outlined in the service manual.
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This procedure outlines an alternative distributor indexing procedure.
Connect a voltmeter to the distributor sensor connector by removing the end seal and carefully back probing the connector. Connect the positive lead to the sensor output pin (pin 3, either a tan wire with a yellow tracer or a gray wire, depending on vehicle application). Connect the negative lead to the sensor ground pin (pin 2, a black wire with a light blue tracer).
Rotate the engine clockwise as viewed from the front, until the number one piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. The timing mark on the vibration damper should line up with the zero degree
(TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover.
Continue to rotate the engine slowly clockwise until the V6 or V8 mark (depending on engine type) lines up with the zero degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain case cover. The V8 mark is 17.5°after TDC and the V6 mark is 147°after TDC. NOTE: DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE COUNTER CLOCKWISE. IF THE ENGINE IS ROTATED BEYOND THE MARK, RETURN TO STEP 2 AND REPEAT THE PROCEDURE.
Loosen the distributor clamp bolt.
With the ignition switch in the ON position, rotate the distributor slightly in either direction until the voltmeter switches between the sensor transition point of 0 and 5 volts.
Adjust the distributor as close as possible to either side of this transition point and tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 19-26 N-m (170-230 in.lbs.) .
Electrical - Multiple Systems Inoperative
NO: 08-10-98
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: Mar. 13, 1998
SUBJECT:
G202 Ground Diagnosis
MODELS:
1997-1998 (AN) Dakota
1998 (DN) Durango
DISCUSSION:
Inspect the G202 ground connection when multiple electrical complaints are encountered, such as the following:
Blower Motor Inoperative
Power Door Locks Inoperative
Dome Light Inoperative
Chime Inoperative
Keyless Entry Inoperative
Cigar Lighter Inoperative
Power Outlet Inoperative
Console Lights Inoperative
Radio Inoperative
Overhead Console Inoperative
Instrument Cluster Gauges Inoperative
The G202 ground connection uses the same bolt that secures the right and left lower instrument panel to the side cowl panel (Figure 1). After verifying that the mating surfaces of the ground connections are good, re-torque both right and left lower instrument panel bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
How to check codes on
a 1997 Dodge
OBTAINING DTC'S USING MIL LAMP
Cycle the ignition key On-Off-On-Off-On within 5 seconds.
Count the number of times the MIL (check engine lamp) on the instrument panel
flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the trouble code. There is
a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of
the code. Longer pauses separate individual two digit trouble codes. An example
of a flashed DTC is as follows:
Lamp flashes 4 times, pauses, and then flashes 6 more times. This indicates a
DTC code number 46.
Lamp flashes 5 times, pauses, and flashes 5 more times. This indicates a DTC
code number 55. A DTC 55 will always be the last code to be displayed. This
indicates the end of all stored codes.
OBTAINING DTC'S USING VEHICLE ODOMETER
Cycle the ignition key On-Off-On-Off-On within 5 seconds.
After a short pause, the mileage shown on the vehicles digital odometer will be
temporarily deleted. After this occurs, read the DTC number displayed on the
odometer. Each two-digit number will be displayed with a slight delay between
numbers.
A DTC number 55 will always be the last code to be displayed. This indicates the
end of all stored codes. After code 55 has been displayed, the odometer will
return to its normal mode.
How to check codes on
a 1998 Dodge
There is no way to check codes on a 1998 Dodge without the help of a Scantool.
We recommend the following tools:
Actron
Kal Global OBD II Code Reader - KM9040
Kal Global OBD II Scan Tool - KM9620
Ease
Standard PC, Laptop, Wireless, PDA OBD-II Scantool
OBD-2
OBD-II On Board Diagnostics Phase 2 Browser
(1996+ Vehicles - Requires Laptop)
SnapOn
MT-2500 Series Computer Diagnostics Scanner (Our Personal favorite but expensive)
The 1999 Dodge Dakota shop manual, page 8E-6 has the following self diagnostic test that checks the instrument cluster and CCD data bus message-controlled indicator lamps, for the other codes a DRB scan tool is required.
NOTE: If the ignition switch is turned to the off position during this test, or if a Vehicle speed message indicating the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM on the CCD data bus during the test, repeat test if required.
This is one continuous test
1. Ignition switch off
2. Press and hold the trip reset knob
3. Turn the ignition switch to on but do not start.
4. Hold the reset knob for approx 10 seconds or until the word CHEC appears in
the display then release.
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FAILURE MESSAGE
|
MESSAGE |
DESCRIPTION |
CORRECTION |
|
|
A failure has been identified in the cluster CPU, RAM, or EEPROM. |
Replace the faulty cluster |
|
900 |
The CCD data bus is not operational. |
1.
Check the CCD data bus connection at the cluster. 2. Check the cluster fuses. 3. Check the CCD data bus. 4. Check the CCD data bus voltage. 5. Check the CCD data bus terminations. |
|
920 |
The cluster is not receiving a vehicle message from the PCM. |
1.
Check the PCM software level and re-flash if required. 2. Use a DRB scan tool to verify that the vehicle speed message is being sent by the PCM. |
|
921 |
The cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the PCM. |
1.
Check the PCM software level and re-flash if required. 2. Use a DRB scan tool to verify that the distance pulse message is being sent by the PCM. |
|
|
The cluster is not receiving an airbag message from the ACM |
1.
Check the CCD data bus connections at the ACM. 2. Check the ACM fuse. |
|
|
The cluster is not receiving an ABS lamp-on message from the CAB. |
1.Check the CCD data bus connections at the CAB 2. Check the CAB fuse. |
|
|
An error has been discovered. |
1.
Record the failure message. 2. Depress the trip odometer reset button to continue the self diagnostic test. |
If no fault codes appear the instrument cluster will begin a walking segment and gauge test.
Walking segment and gauge test
This test requires a visual inspection of each odometer segment as it is displayed to determine a pass or fail condition.
1.
All segments will be illuminated at once.
2.
Then each
individual segment of the odometer display will be illuminated in sequence.
3. If any
segment fails to illuminate, repeat test to confirm the failure.
4. If failure
is confirmed replace the faulty instrument cluster.
The instrument cluster will perform a bulb check of each indicator lamp that the instrument cluster controls.
1.
If a individual amber indicator lamp does not illuminate the instrument
cluster should be removed, however check that bulb is not faulty and bulb holder
is properly installed on the circuit board before considering replacing
instrument cluster. If bulb and holder are ok replace faulty instrument cluster.
2.
Each of the
red indicators are illuminated by a LED. If a LED fails to illuminate the
Instrument cluster must be replaced.
The instrument cluster will perform a gauge actuator test. In this test the instrument cluster circuitry positions each of the gauge needles at three different calibration points, then returns them to their relaxed position.
1.
If an individual gauge does respond properly or at all remove the
instrument cluster and check the gauge terminal pins are properly inserted
through the spring clip terminal pin receptacles on the instrument cluster.
2.
If the
gauge terminal connections are ok replace the faulty cluster.
This ends the Self Diagnostic test. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the test and return to normal operation.
(Procedure brought to our attention by Doug)
Spark Plug Wire Reroute - TSB (1997-1999 V6/V8 Models)
Dodge Magnum Engine -
3.9L Plug Wire Reroute
(MSWord)
Dodge Magnum Engine - 5.2/5.9L
Plug Wire Reroute (MSWord)
I've got Four (4) O2 Sensors...What do they do?
OXYGEN SENSOR-PCM INPUTS
When the vehicle is equipped with a this engine and two-wheel-drive (2WD), four
heated O2S sensors Will be used. They are: Left, right, pre-catalyst and post
catalyst. The left, right and post catalyst sensors will fine-tune air-fuel
ratio. The pre-catalyst and post catalyst sensors will determine catalytic
converter efficiency.
Two of these sensors are installed into the left and right exhaust manifold down pipes.
The left O2S sensor will monitor cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7. The right sensor will
monitor cylinders 2, 4, 6 and 8.
The sensors produce voltages from 0 to 1 volt , depending upon the oxygen
content of the exhaust gas in the exhaust manifold. When a large amount of
oxygen is present (caused by a lean air/fuel mixture), the sensors produces a
low voltage. When there is a lesser amount present (rich air/fuel mixture) it
produces a higher voltage. By monitoring the oxygen content and converting it to
electrical voltage, the sensors act as a rich-lean switch.
The oxygen sensors are equipped with a heating element that keeps the sensors at
proper operating temperature during all operating modes. Maintaining correct
sensor temperature at all times allows the system to enter into closed loop
operation sooner. Also, it allows the system to remain in closed loop operation
during periods of extended idle.
In Closed Loop operation, the PCM monitors the O2S sensor input (along with
other inputs) and adjusts the injector pulse width accordingly. During Open Loop
operation, the PCM ignores the O2 sensor input. The PCM adjusts injector pulse
width based on preprogrammed (fixed) values and inputs from other sensors.
The Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay supplies battery voltage to both oxygen
sensors. The oxygen sensors are equipped with a heating elements. The heating
elements reduce the time required for the sensors to reach operating
temperature.
| PRE-CATALYST OXYGEN SENSOR The pre-catalyst O2S sensor is located in the inlet end of the catalytic converter. It provides an input voltage to the PCM. By comparing the input from the pre-catalyst O2S sensor, with the input from the post catalyst oxygen sensor, the PCM calculates catalytic converter efficiency. |
|
| POST CATALYST OXYGEN SENSOR The post catalyst heated oxygen sensor threads into the outlet end of the catalytic converter. The post catalyst heated oxygen sensor input is used to detect catalytic converter deterioration and fine tune the air fuel ratio. As the converter deteriorates, the input from this sensor begins to match the pre-catalyst sensor input except for a slight time delay. By comparing the inputs from both of these sensors, the PCM calculates catalytic converter efficiency. |
When the catalytic converter efficiency drops below emission standards, the PCM stores a diagnostic trouble code and illuminates the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
(1) Use a V8 Throttle Body, Flometrics
48mm (50mm if running 9# boost), or Fastman modified throttle body (preferably with V8 cable as
well for ease of installation)
(2) 3923 Spark Plugs
(3) A good ignition coil
(4) 180 Degree T'Stat
(5) Boost Bypass Valve (not the MAP/Boost Bypass Valve) REQUIRED for anything at
9# or above (also helps with 6# but not really required)
(6) Headers (recommended but not required unless you plan on higher boost levels
- 9# really wakes up the V6 and they don't blow head gaskets like the 5.2/5.9's)
(7) Get rid of the Powerdyne Filter...it only flows 339CFM and the blower flows
850CFM @ 6#. The S&B Filters (or K&N) 6"x9" Cones fit perfectly but you will
have to build a small bracket to hold the filter steady (this goes for the V8
folks as well...Powerdyne has been made aware of this it's with R&D right now.)
The SuperChips ICON allows you to custom program your timing curve in 400rpm increments (+/- 20 degrees at each increment starting at 1600rpm and up to 7000rpm). We're not running BTM at all on our V6 Truck...just the MSD Digital-6+ (Rev limiter set at 5500rpm) and the SuperChips box...and we just installed a custom built Billet Pulley from Worldwide Performance Parts (11#) for testing...no pinging with Super Unleaded and a bottle of ProBlend "Nitro Power". (We set the timing curve right at the detonation point, back it off .5 degrees across the board, and add a bottle of ProBlend. Runs VERY well and is real "peppy" across the board.
If you're running an IAT Adjuster, set it at 70-60 degrees but no colder on the S/C'd V6. The FMU compensates for the boost and the factory injectors will keep up with the added fuel from the FMU. At 9# or higher, you'll need to swap out to the FMS 24#...and they don't run rich at idle on the V6's at all.
The diagram for the MAP/Boost Bypass Valve setup is here: MAP/Boost Bypass System You can use the FMU line to tap into but with 9# or higher, move the line to a different vacuum source.
I want more boost out of my Powerdyne Supercharger:
(1) Replace the inefficient air filter that comes with
the kit (It only flow 339CFM according to K&N - The Powerdyne puts out 850CFM @
6# Boost)
(2) ATI, Paxton, K&N, and a few other companies make aftermarket air hats for
the 5 1/8" opening of the Dodge Throttle Body. These are all metal and can
withstand much more than 10# boost...unlike the factory Dodge Air Hat which
comes apart with 9# or more boost.
(3) If you're really wanting a lot of boost, grab a spare alternator pulley, cut
a keyway groove on the inner hole (to match the grove depth on the Powerdyne
Pulley), and install it. The factory Alternator pulley makes 13# boost!!
WARNING - USE AT YOUR OWN RISK...You WILL void the warranty on the
Supercharger and risk damaging your engine unless it's built for this type of
boost level (Pistons, Crank, Rods, O-Rings Head/Block Surface).
Upper Control Arm Bushing Problem:
It's a known fact that the passenger-side, upper control arm bushings deteriorate much quicker than the driver-side. This is due to the offset of the engine in the engine bay. The heat from the factory manifold causes the rubber to deteriorate prematurely...not because of headers as some dealerships claim. (It happens to both factory manifolds and headers...even Mopar headers.)
There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on this from 1997-2000 vehicles (Dakota/Durango).
Upper Control Arm Bushing TSB -
MS Word
Upper Control Arm Bushing TSB -
Adobe PDF
TPS Modification:
(Applies to '92 -Current models)
Have you ever noticed that slight stumble right off idle when you mash the pedal to the floor? Here's an easy fix for the sluggish response of the throttle (which is related to the TPS Sensor).
Here's a chart that shows the change in the Absolute TPS% that the PCM sees
TPS Voltage Absolute TPS%
|
.44v |
7.9% |
|
.53v |
10.1% |
|
.685v |
12.5% |
|
.75v |
13.7% |
|
.82v |
15.3% |
Check your TPS voltage before doing this modification as none of the factory sensors are calibrated the same. We've seen ranges from .3v-.7v...from the factory. Connect a Digital Volt Meter to the middle terminal on the TPS sensor (with the harness connected and the Key-ON/Engine-OFF). If it's close to .7v...leave it alone.
(1) Remove your TPS Sensor from the vehicle (Located on the drivers side of
the throttle body - 3-Wire Connector)
(2) Put the TPS into a vice and drill the two brass inserts out of the casing
with a 1/4" or 7/32" drill bit (drill from the back of the sensor...not the
front). You'll need to push on the drill as it will only spin the
inserts...once they're heated up enough, they'll pop right out.
(3) Clean up the holes with either the drill or (preferred) a small round file.
(4) Reinstall the TPS Sensor on the throttle body. You'll need two small
washers on the screws as the holes are now bigger than the screw head.
Leave it slightly loose as you're going to have to set the initial Key ON/Engine
OFF Voltage before starting the engine.
(5) Reconnect the TPS sensor harness and connect a Digital Volt Meter to the middle terminal on the TPS Sensor (you
can poke through the weather-proof connector).
(6) Turn the ignition key ON but do NOT start the engine.
(7) Set the initial voltage (by turning it with your fingers) on the TPS at about .7 volts. (Optimum range
is from .7 - .75 volts)
(8) Tighten down the TPS screws and check the voltage one more time (yes...it
can move slightly when tightening it down)
(9) Start the engine but do NOT step on the accelerator pedal...let the computer
learn the new initial voltage setting.
(10) Turn the engine off and close the hood...drive away of you want...your
throttle response should be much more precise now.
Here are some pictures for the various steps:
 Factory TPS Sensor w/Brass Inserts |
 TPS Sensor in the vice (ready to drill) |
 Modified TPS Sensor Holes |
 TPS Sensor reinstalled with washers |
Some have claimed that the TPS Sensor is adjustable on the actual throttle body without any modifications...this is completely false. There is no room for adjustment unless you drill the inserts out.
We spoke with the folks from Denso at at the SEMA show on the Iridium plugs and decided to purchase a set ($8.50/plug approximately). We're using the recommended IQ16's in our '97 Dakota and, quite honestly, they don't perform any better than the Autolite 3923's (or 3922's) I normally run. We'll check out the long-term fuel economy as well...but the initial results aren't too promising.
Update - 11/12/01: We've put about 100 miles on the plugs and they do seem to work better on the highway under light acceleration. Please keep in mind that we are testing them on a Supercharger/Nitroused/Intercooled V6 and the performance increases from the plugs may not be as noticeable as on a normally aspirated engine. Our personal opinion, not a bad plug at all but don't see spending over $8.00 per plug. We're still keeping an eye on the fuel economy so there will be one or two more updates on that parts of the test.
Update 02/20/02: We've run the truck with over 5000 miles on the Denso spark plugs and are switching back to the Autolites. While the Denso Iridium plugs will outlast the Autolites, the Accel ignition, boost, and nitrous have taken a toll on the plugs. For the average daily driver, they Iridium plugs are a good alternative/replacement (especially for Platinum plugs) but don't work any better than the Autolites in our specific case.
What is a "S-Bolt" and how do I make one
Here's the actual measurements. You'll need about 12" of 1/4"x20 rod from your local Home Depot. (The reason for the 12" is in case you make a few mistakes...this leaves you extra material for practice.)
Engine - Rattling/Lifter Type Noise
NO:
09-07-97
GROUP: Engine
DATE: June 27, 1997
SUBJECT:
Timing Chain Noise
MODELS:
(Applies to '98+ models as well)
1990 - 1997 (AN) Dakota
1990 - 1997 (AB) Ram Van/Wagon
1990 - 1993 (AD) Ram Pickup/Ram Cab & Chassis/Ramcharger
1994 - 1997 (BR) Ram Truck
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 3.9L ENGINE.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A Rattling or lifter type noise coming from the front (chain case) area of the
engine.
DIAGNOSIS:
Start the engine and bring it to operating temperature. Increase and decrease
engine RPM slightly while listening to the front end of the engine for a
rattling or lifter type noise. A stethoscope can be used to help pin point the
noise location. If the noise is found coming from the timing chain case, perform
the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
1 83507095 Timing
Chain and Sprocket Package
1 53021057 Gasket, Timing Chain Case
1 02129013 Gasket, Water Pump 1990 - 1991
1 04483757 Gasket, Water Pump 1992 - 1997
1 4897297AA Seal, Front Case 1992 - 1997
1 03830109 Seal, Front Case 1990 - 1991
1 53021195AA Tensioner, Timing Chain
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves replacing the timing chain and sprockets and installing a timing chain tensioner.
|
1. |
Following the appropriate service manual procedures, disassemble the front end of the engine to gain access to the timing chain and sprockets. |
|
|
2. |
Remove the chain and sprockets from the engine. Discard the parts
|
|
|
3. |
Remove the thrust plate and chain oil tab (Figure 1). Discard the parts.
|
|
|
4. |
Install the timing chain tensioner p/n 53021195AA in the position where the thrust plate and oil tab was installed (Figure 2). Torque the bolts to 24 Nm (210 in. lbs.). |
|
|
5. |
Install the new timing sprockets and chain p/n 083507095. Align the timing marks per the appropriate service manual procedure. Torque the camshaft bolt to 68 Nm (50 ft. lbs.). |
|
|
6. |
Remove the lock pin that holds the tensioner plate for the chain. Discard the pin. |
|
NOTE: WITH THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER INSTALLED, THE CAMSHAFT END PLAY WILL BE 0.051 - 0.330 MM (.002 TO .013 IN).
|
7. |
Reinstall the remaining components per the appropriate service manual procedures. |
POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No:
09-10-05-92 2.3 Hrs.
Optional Equipment: 09-10-05-61 Power Steering 0.2
Hrs.
09-10-05-63 Air Conditioning 0.4 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE: P8 - New Part
Lonewolf Software: Automotive Wolf v4.10
While we normally don't want to endorse or promote software for your vehicle, this is a utility that we've been using for quite some time now. It has all the necessary features for tracking your vehicles maintenance schedule as well as quite a few others as well.
» Detailed Maintenance and Repair Records:
» Displays Maintenance / Inspection Reminders:
» Predicts when maintenance and inspections are due
» Configurable maintenance/inspection requirements
» Valuable Car Care Tips section
» Automotive Systems Reference
» Automotive diagnosis and troubleshooting!
» Cost Analysis (cost/mile, cost/year etc)
» Track fuel usage
» Increases the resale value of your vehicle!
» Quickly print out a "What's due" list
» Unlimited vehicles
» Network compatible
» Auto-upgrading
» Alarms, advice and More!
You can download the shareware version from our website or go directly to the manufacturers website at: http://www.lonewolf-software.com
Download - 4.8MB - Works with Windows95/98/Me/NT/2000/XP
Information on all sorts of Mopar Engines (Past and Present)
How to relocate your IAT Sensor
The IAT Sensor is located on the #2 Intake Runner (3.9/5.2/5.9L) or under the Throttle Body, in the manifold (4.7L) - Big Brass looking sensor with two wires (Grayish connector)
Remove the IAT sensor from the manifold and plug the hole with a 1/4" NPT Pipe Plug (Home Depot)
Drill a 1/2" hole in the intake tube and thread the IAT sensor into the hole (use some silicone if you want...not required though) - You may have to extend the wires about 6-12" in some cases (use 16ga. wire)
Looking for that "Pro Street" Look on your Dakota
For over 17 years now MAGNUMFORCE RACE CAR FABRICATION has been producing some of the finest and fastest cars around. Although our roots began with Drag Racing and Pro Street cars the fact is that virtually every form of motor sports at some time or another has been represented here. Silver State, NASCAR, NHRA, SCCA, Indy cars, Drag bikes, custom Harleys, Off road, Exotic imports, Drag boats, Muscle Cars, Street Rods, Law Enforcement, and even military tanks (yes tanks!).
MAGNUMFORCE Race Car Fabrication
Excessive Oil Consumption and/or Spark Knock (Belly Pan TSB)
This covers 1997+ 3.9/5.2/5.9L Magnum Engines
MS Word Format Adobe PDF Format
What's NEW for 2002 - Dodge Dakota
Dodge Dakota - All Models: Adobe PDF (1.93MB)
Do those "Wonder Oils" really work?
While we try to refrain from degrading other products that we haven't tested...we've tested these and they do NOT work and have had claims filed against them from the FTC.
Dura-Lube: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9905/duralub2.htm
ProLong: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9909/prolong.htm
MotorUp: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9904/motorup5.htm
Slick50: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/9607/slick.htm
Z-Max: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm
Lubricants that work in outer space may not work here on earth at all. Materials like PTFE are claimed to have the lowest coefficient of friction, but even the manufacturer of PTFE do not recommend it to be used in an internal combustion engine. Why? It cannot withstand the heat! It is too fragile a compound and it decomposes and turns into a sticky plastic residue and a corrosive fluorine gas. Are you sure you want this in your crankcase?
Shocks - Lifted or Lowered Trucks
So you've lifted or lowered your truck...but does that mean that you need a different length shock? Not necessarily. You need a different length shock if the distance between the shock's upper and lower mounting points have changed drastically.
Say you've lowered your truck with 2 in. drop spindles in front and 3 in. lowering blocks in back. The distances between the shock mounting points have decreased, but are still within the limits of a stock length shock.
But what if you go with a 4 in. front/6 in. rear slam? The shock mounting points will be closer together and now you'll need shorter shocks. The same principle applies to trucks with suspension lift kits (Body lift kits don't affect shock mounting points).
Cab Mount - Popping Noise on Steep Inclines
NO: 23-65-97 Rev. A
GROUP: Body
DATE: December 31, 1997
SUBJECT: Loud Popping Noise Is Heard When Vehicle Makes A Sharp Turn Onto A
Steep Incline
1997-2001 (AN) Dakota
NOTE: This bulletin applies to 4X2 and 4X4 extended cab vehicles.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A loud popping noise is heard coming from the rear of the cab as the vehicle is
turned onto a steep incline such as a driveway approach.
DIAGNOSIS:
Drive the vehicle and turn onto a steep incline while listening for a popping
noise coming from the rear of the cab. If a popping noise is heard, perform the
following Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
2 06501557 Bolt, Cab Isolator Mounting
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves removing the rear cab isolators and removing 1/4 in. to
3/8 in. of material from the isolator sleeve.
Install the rear cab upper isolators back onto the isolator mount.
With a jack, raise the cab high enough to remove the blocks of wood.
Remove the blocks of wood and lower the cab back onto the isolators.
Install the under-cab isolators onto new cab mounting bolts, p/n 06501557, and fasten the mounting bolts to the cab. Tighten the bolts to 81 Nm (60 ft. lbs.).
Lower the vehicle.
Carfax Services
SpeedTweaks is a Carfax Affiliate and is offering FREE Carfax reports. The basic check will notify you is there are any records (good or bad) for the vehicle. A full Carfax report will require payment.
How to repair the Plenum Gasket (Belly Pan Gasket)
The repair procedure is the same for the 3.9/5.2/5.9L Magnum engines
MS Word Format Adobe PDF Format
Popping Sensation/Noise In Steering Column While Turning
NUMBER: 19-05-99
GROUP: Steering
DATE: Jul. 23, 1999
SUBJECT:
Popping Sensation/Noise In Steering Column While Turning
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves repositioning the steering column on the steering
column mounting brackets.
MODELS:
1997 - 2000 (AN) Dakota
1998 - 2000 (DN) Durango
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A popping sensation/noise can be felt and/or heard in the steering column
during sharp turns (parking lot maneuvers).
DIAGNOSIS:
Start the engine. Rotate the steering wheel to the extreme right and then to
the extreme left while monitoring for a popping noise or sensation. If a popping
noise or sensation can be heard and/or felt in the steering column while
turning, perform the Repair Procedure.
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
Hot to properly Dyno Test Modifications
To keep things somewhat consistent, use the same dyno to eliminate variances between different dynometers. Also, keep the hood DOWN when testing. If you want to take "Real World" readings, close the hood as we don't drive around with the hood up. (Use a fan in front of the vehicle though.)
20HP Timing Advance Kit - eBay (WARNING)
Folks, it has been brought to our attention that an individual on eBay is selling a "Timing Advance Kit" with claims of a 20HP gain on the Dodge, GM, and Ford engines. This is a scam and is not worth the money spent as it is a simple resistor which costs no more than 50 cents at your local radio shack. It uses the same trick as the old-fashioned "resistor trick" as described on the IAT Adjuster page. Buyers Beware!
(The resistor trick uses various 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistors to fool the PCM into thinking the air is cooler than it really is. While this does work, the gains are no more than 6-8RWHP with some cases being only 10RWHP at most. It is weather specific, no same resistor value works for all vehicles, and is primarily used at the track only.)
The seller also uses many different aliases (names) on eBay so watch out as the ads are very similar in format and language. Seller goes by the following names: rumpshaker, chad302, wholesalerezellers, and z2811sec
EGR Bypass Kit - eBay (WARNING)
The same individual who is selling the "Timing Kit" on eBay is also selling a "EGR Bypass Kit". He/she claims that this works on '96+ Dodge models as well which is 100% FALSE. Dodge has NOT used an EGR valve on the Magnum engines since 1995. Plus, bypassing the EGR can possibly cause other problems with the "Check Engine Light" coming on.
Here is a quote from the seller:
"yes it will work and no your engine light will stay off. thanx"
bernd@texas.net wrote:
Will this work on my '97 Dakota and will it trip the check engine light after blocking the EGR?
--------------------
Title of item: DODGE DAKOTA EGR Block Off Mod 5-15HP
Seller: rumpshaker420
Starts: Apr-06-02 16:11:06 PST
Ends: Apr-09-02 17:11:06 PDT
Price: Starts at $9.99
To view the item, go to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1819332951
Don't be fooled by this sellers claims...there is NO EGR Valve on the '96+ engines. The seller also uses many different aliases (names) on eBay so watch out as the ads are very similar in format and language. Seller goes by the following names: rumpshaker, chad302, wholesalerezellers, and z2811sec
What grade of fuel should I use - Octane
from Gasoline Questions & Answers for Your Car
API Publication 1580, Sixth edition, January 1996
Q. What is octane?
A. Octane is a measure of a gasoline's ability to resist knock or pinging noise
from an engine. In older vehicles, knock may be accompanied by engine run-on, or
dieseling. Knock is the sharp, metallic-sounding engine noise that results from
uncontrolled combustion. Severe knocking over an extended time may damage
pistons and other engine parts. If you can hear knocking, you should have your
engine checked to make sure it is calibrated correctly and does not have a
mechanical or electrical problem, or use a higher octane gasoline.
In most vehicles no benefit is gained from using gasoline that has a higher
octane number than is needed to prevent knock. However, in some vehicles
equipped with a knock sensor (an electronic device installed in many modern
engines that allows the engine management system to detect and reduce knock), a
higher octane gasoline may improve performance slightly.
Q. What determines my car's octane requirements?
A. Your car's octane requirements are mainly determined by its basic design. In
addition, variations in engines due to manufacturing tolerances can cause cars
of the same model to require a different octane of several numbers. Also, as a
new car is driven, its octane requirement can increase because of the buildup of
combustion chamber deposits. This continues until a stable level is reached,
typically after about 15,000 miles. The stabilized octane requirement may be 3-6
numbers higher than when the car was new. Premium or midgrade fuel may be
advisable to prevent knock.
Other factors also influence your car's knocking characteristics:
Temperature -
Generally, the hotter the ambient air and engine coolant, the greater the octane
requirement.
Altitude - The
higher the altitude above sea level, the lower the octane requirement. Modern
computer-controlled engines adjust spark timing and air-fuel ratio to compensate
for changes in barometric pressure, and thus the effect of altitude on octane
requirement is smaller in these vehicles.
Humidity - The
drier the air, the greater the octane requirement. The recommendations that
vehicle manufacturers give are for normal- to low-humidity levels.
Your engine's spark timing -
The octane requirement increases as the spark timing is
advanced. Both the basic setting of the spark timing and the operation of the
automatic spark advance mechanisms are important in controlling knock. In some
computer controlled engines, the spark timing can only be changed by replacing
modules in the computer. If they are equipped with knock sensors, these computer
controlled engines have the ability to retard the ignition temporarily when a
sensor detects knock. This temporarily reduces the octane requirement and may
also temporarily reduce vehicle performance.
Method of driving -
Rapid acceleration and heavy loading, such as pulling a
trailer or climbing a hill, may result in a greater octane requirement.
Stop-and-go driving and excessive idling can increase octane requirements by
causing the buildup of combustion chamber deposits.
Malfunctions of emission control systems - An improperly functioning emissions control
system can affect the octane requirement by changing the air-fuel mixture or by
not providing dilution gases through the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system.
If a malfunction occurs, your vehicle should be taken to a qualified vehicle
service mechanic. Some problems are indicated by warning lights on the driver's
instrument panel.
Q. How many grades of gasoline are available?
A. Most places that sell gasoline offer three octane grades of unleaded
gasoline--regular at 87 (R+M)/2, midgrade at 89 (R+M)/2, and premium at 93 (R+M)/2.
In high-altitude areas such as the Rocky Mountain Region of the U.S., the (R+M)/2
number may be lower by one or two numbers. After January 1, 1996, no leaded
gasoline may be sold for highway use.
Q. Which octane grade should I use in my car?
A. Use the recommendation in your car owner's manual as a starting point for
selecting the proper gasoline. If you notice engine knock over an extended time
and your engine is adjusted correctly, try a higher octane gasoline. Also,
higher octane may provide a performance benefit (better acceleration) in cars
equipped with knock sensors. Many late model and high-performance (turbo-charged
and supercharged) cars fall into this category.
Top
How to bypass the speed limiter ('97-'02 models)
While this is not recommended by any means, there have been some folks interested in bypassing the speed limiter. We are working on the circuitry for this...but in the mean time, you can bypass it by turning your key to the START position and holding it there. On '98+ models, this will turn your speedometer off but will keep the rest of the gauges operational. (Do NOT do this at high speeds or extended periods as you really need both hands on the steering wheel and we haven't tested it on prolonged periods of time.)
How to read your Dyno run files
If you had some Dyno work, or just some HP/TQ readings done on a Dyno, you can ask the Dyno operator to save your file to a floppy disk. Once you get home, you can view them with the DynoJet "RunViewer". You can download them from this link: DynoJet RunViewer. This applies only to the DynoJet dynometers.
How to install the camshafts on a 4.7L Engine
Please note that if you do not feel comfortable removing the camshafts from your engine, have a qualified automotive technician do it for you. The instructions are in MS Word format.
Factory Intake Manifold Modifications
(You'll need to remove the intake manifold for this as well as removing the plenum plate - aka: belly pan.)
(1) If you are one of the unlucky people who received a factory manifold with
the plenum divider that runs all the way to the bottom, remove the intake and
cut it back by no more than 2". If you don't have the full-length divider, go to
step 2
(2) Remove all casting flash from the runners and port edges.
(3) Radius all edges on the runners
(4) Radius the injector bosses on the head mating surface of the manifold
(5) Radius the edges of the throttle body bores (45 degree angle)
(6) Install an APS Billet Aluminum Plenum Plate Kit (available through our
website)
(7) Replace the injectors with a set of Ford Motorsports 19# High Flow (optional
step)
Those will help bring out the lower to mid RPM band power and smoothness. The billet aluminum pan will also fix that annoying "belly pan leak" problem.
While the factory manifold can be modified even more by cutting the runners and filling the plenum, save your money on those two steps and buy an M1-2BBL MPI Manifold.
What do the Tire Wear Ratings mean?
Uniform Tire Quality
Grading - UTQG Ratings
The Department of Transportation requires each manufacturer to grade its tires
under the Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG) labeling system and establish
ratings for tread wear, traction, and temperature resistance. These tests are
conducted independently by each manufacturer following government guidelines to
assign values that represent a comparison between the tested tire and a control
tire. While traction and temperature resistance ratings are specific performance
levels, the tread wear ratings are assigned by the manufacturers following field
testing and are most accurate when comparing tires of the same brand.
Treadwear:
Treadwear receives a comparative rating based on wear rate of the the tire
in field testing following a government specified course. For example, a tire
grade of 150 wears 1.5 times longer than a tire graded 100. Actual performance
of the tire can vary significantly depending on conditions, driving habits,
care, road characteristics, and climate.
Traction:
Straight-a-head wet braking traction has been represented by a grade of A,
B, or C with A being the highest. In 1997 a new top rating of "AA" has been
introduced to indicate even greater wet braking traction. However, due to its
newness, this grade will probably be applied initially to new tire lines as they
are introduced and later to existing lines which excel in wet braking, but had
been limited to the previous top grade of "A". Traction grades do not indicate
wet cornering ability.
Temperature:
Temperature resistance is graded A, B or C. It represents the tire's
resistance to the heat generated by running at high speed. Grade C is the
minimum level of performance for all passenger car tires as set under Federal
Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. This grade is established for a tire that is
properly inflated and not overloaded.
Note: UTQG ratings are not required on winter and light truck sized tires.
Engine Cooling Fan
Noise
MODELS:
1998 - 1999 (AB) Ram Van/Wagon
1997 - 2001 (AN) Dakota
1998 - 2001 (DN) Durango
DISCUSSION:
Some vehicles may exhibit an engine cooling fan "roar" noise. This noise is
created by a large cooling fan that is required to provide optimum cooling for
low vehicle speed operation in hot weather conditions and for heavy trailer
towing. Since the large cooling fan is unnecessary in most operating conditions,
these vehicles are also equipped with viscous fan drives that allow the fan to
operate at variable speeds based upon temperature loads. The viscous fan drive
will engage the fan for maximum cooling when temperatures are high and allow the
fan to operate at slower speeds when temperatures are low. In addition, at
engine start-up, the viscous fan drive engages the fan for maximum cooling until
the fluid in the viscous clutch can dissipate out of the clutch drive grooves
allowing the fan to operate at a slower speed.
Because of the viscous fan drive, the noise may occur during high temperature
conditions and for the first 1-2 minutes of operation. Due to the roar of the
fan, customers may also complain of a perceived loss of power, automatic
transmission slippage, or that the transmission is staying in a low gear too
long (delayed upshift).
Customers concerned about this noise should be advised that this condition is
normal and no repair attempts should be made.
A/T - Engine Bucking/Surging at 5,300 RPM
NO: 18-19-98
GROUP: Driveability
DATE: Apr. 10, 1998
SUBJECT: Vehicle Bucking During Wide Open Throttle Acceleration
MODELS:
| 1996 + | (AB) | Ram Van |
| 1996 + | (AN) | Dakota |
| 1996 + | (BR/BE) | Ram Truck |
| 1998 + | (DN) | Durango |
| 1996 + | (ZJ) | Grand Cherokee |
| 1996 + | (ZG) | Grand Cherokee (International Markets) |
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some vehicles may experience bucking during wide open throttle (WOT) acceleration. The bucking occurs at approximately 5300 RPM. This condition may be caused by reaching the high RPM fuel shut off rev limit before the transmission can shift into the next higher gear and is most likely to occur with high electrical loads (high beams on, heated back light, heated seats, radio, HVAC blower on MAX etc.). During high current demands, the generator may emit electrical noise that can affect the transmission governor pressure sensor output. If this occurs, the transmission may not shift properly to the next higher gear under (WOT) acceleration conditions and therefore reach the fuel shut off rev limiter. This may be seen most often between the 2-3 shifts but can also be experienced between the 1-2 shifts.
DIAGNOSIS:
Using the Diagnostic Scan Tool (DRB III(R)) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures Manual, verify all engine/transmission systems are functioning as designed. If Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are present, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin.
NOTE : ONLY PERFORM THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE SAFELY ON A HIGHWAY OR ROAD OBEYING ALL POSTED SPEED LIMITS AND LAWS.
Attempt to duplicate the condition by switching on all accessory loads and driving the vehicle with WOT accelerations through a shift sequence to see if the engine will reach the fuel shut off rev limiter before the 2-3 or 1-2 shift is made.
If the bucking condition is experienced at approximately 5300 RPM before making the appropriate up shifts, switch off all electrical loads and repeat the procedure. Repeat the procedure with the electrical loads on and off a second time. If the bucking occurs with the electrical loads on and does not occur with the loads off, perform the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
1 - 56041403AA, Governor Pressure Sensor
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves installing a newly designed governor pressure sensor.
(1)
Following the procedures in the applicable service manual, replace the governor
pressure sensor with p/n 56041403AA (See picture below).
(2) Check the throttle valve cable adjustment. Make appropriate adjustments, if
necessary, following the applicable service manual procedure.
Intense Performance vs. Air Force One Intake
We just had to try it. Air Force One Intake System vs. Intense Performance Stage-II w/7" BigMouth. The results, while no Dyno runs were performed, the Naturally Aspirated V6 (our Dakota) showed immediate performance changes from 2800-5200rpm. Under normal cruising there was no difference but the Intense Performance Intake came out the definitive winner against the Air Force One intake when at higher rpm's. At 2500rpm (and at WOT) the Air Force One didn't pull as hard as the Intense Performance and at 4500rpm, the engine seemed to be struggling to get the added air required. We put the Intense Performance Stage-II w/7" BigMouth back on and the problem went away.
Both intake systems are right at $135 but the Intense Performance Intake ran cooler due to the ceramic coating...unlike the High Polished Stainless Steel tube used on the Air Force One intake. As for instructions...NO INSTRUCTIONS came with the Air Force One (god only knows where the bracket goes that comes with the Air Force One Intake)...Intense Performance includes excellent instructions.
Pictures (from left to right):
(1) Intense Performance (top) - Air Force One
(bottom)
(2) Air Force One Filter (with cone inside)
(3) Air Force One Filter (outside shot)
Hands down...the Intense Performance Intake comes out ahead!
How to test your Instrument Cluster (Lamps, Gauges, Indicators)
1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position.
2. Depress the trip odometer reset button.
3. While holding the trip odometer reset button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine.
4. Keep the trip odometer reset button depressed for about ten seconds, until CHEC appears in the odometer display, then release the odometer reset button.
5. A series of three-digit numeric failure messages may appear in the odometer display, depending upon the failure mode. If a failure message appears, see the Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Instrument Panel/Instrument Cluster Failure Message chart for the description and proper correction. If no failure message appears, the Self-Diagnostics will proceed as described in Step 6.
6. The cluster will begin the odometer walking segment test. This test will require the operator to visually inspect each odometer segment as it is displayed to determine a pass or fail condition. First, all of the segments will be illuminated at once; then, each individual segment of the odometer display will be illuminated in sequence. If any segment in the display fails to illuminate, repeat the test to confirm the failure. If the failure is confirmed, replace the faulty instrument cluster. Following the odometer walking segment test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed as described in Step 7.
7. The cluster will perform a bulb check of each indicator lamp that the cluster circuitry controls. If an individual amber indicator lamp does not illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the incandescent lamp bulb is not faulty and that the bulb holder is properly installed on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement.
8. If the bulb and bulb holder check OK, replace the faulty cluster. Each of the red indicators are illuminated by a Light Emitting Diode (LED) . If an LED fails to illuminate during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced. Following the bulb check test, the cluster Self-Diagnostic Test will automatically proceed as described in Step 8.
9. The cluster will perform a gauge actuator test. In this test the cluster positions each of the gauge needles at three different calibration points, then returns the gauge needles to their relaxed positions. If an individual gauge does not respond properly or at all during the gauge actuator test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the gauge terminal pins are properly inserted through the spring-clip terminal pin receptacles on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the gauge terminal connections are OK replace the faulty instrument cluster.
10. The Self-Diagnostic Test is now completed. The cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test, if the ignition switch is turned to the Off position during the test, or if a vehicle speed message indicating the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM on the CCD data bus during the test.
Go back to Step 1 to repeat the test, if required.
PCM Modes of Operation and Input/Outputs
Basic description of what the PCM does and which sensors are used at what key position and engine running conditions.
MS-Word Format
- 48k
Adobe PDF
Format - 20k
Torque Converter Terminology (Stall Speed and what it really is)
What is Torque Converter Stall?
The easy answer is: The RPM a torque converter will allow the engine to attain
with a given engine torque input.
How is Torque Converter Stall
measured?
That's where the confusion begins between the racer and the high stall torque
converter builder. Stall is measured in three different ways - TRUE, BRAKE and
FLASH Stall. The only true way to set stall is using TRUE stall math.
What is TRUE Stall?
True stall is measured with the transmission locked (Trans brake) and the drive
shaft still. The throttle is then fully depressed and held to obtain the holding
RPM of the torque converter. This is the "TRUE" Stall.
What is Foot Brake stall?
This is attained with the transmission in gear and the brakes depressed fully.
Now, slowly apply the accelerator. The RPM the engine reaches the moment before
the tires spin is known as the "BRAKE" stall. BRAKE stall in not a
consistent way to measure your stall converter and has many variables.
This method will be lower then TRUE stall by 400-800 RPM.
What is FLASH Stall?
Flash stall is generally read while the car is in motion. While rolling at a
slow speed the throttle is depressed fully to see where the RPM will flash (or
peak). This method will not be true if tires spin or car is rolling too
fast. Due to the turbine already turning in the converter we end up with
less torque multiplication. This will give you a lower stall reading of
between 200 and 600 RPM under the converters TRUE stall in the same application.
Why do I need a custom built high
stall torque converter ?
A torque converter that has a part number has many applications. Many
manufactures sell you the same advertised 3200 rpm stall converter for your
small block as they would for the next customers big block. This will always
result in two very different stall settings. Do you need a custom built high
stall torque converter? Perhaps you don't, but building the units on a one
to one basis allows us to put out a product that is configured correct the FIRST
time.
At what RPM should I
activate my Nitrous System
The RPM level is not as important as is the motors ability to rev freely when
the nitrous is engaged, I.E. If the vehicle is in low gear, nitrous can be
engaged at any time, but if the vehicle is in a higher gear moving at a slow
speed when the nitrous is engaged the engine will detonate and damage will
occur. The same goes for actual differential gearing.
Moving the MAP Sensor
line to Manifold Vacuum
(Does it really work?)
Some folks have claimed that moving the MAP Sensor signal line (vacuum line) over to Manifold Vacuum generates more HP and TQ. While it "feels" like it, all you're doing is dropping the MAP signal quicker - causing the PCM to think that it's under a load quicker - therefore adding more fuel and retarding the timing slightly quicker (yes...timing is retarded while under a load). In cases where a longer duration camshaft with more overlap (see Poor Idle with Big Cam tip) is present, this does work...but it's not going to substantially increase HP/TQ on stock cam's engines.
Charging System Upgrade - 1992-1996
If you are running a higher than stock performance engine and/or high powered stereo equipment in your 1992-1996 Dakota, you can replace the alternator pulley on your factory unit with the pulley from a 1997 or newer Dakota (2.5/3.9/5.2/5.9L all have the same pulley on them). We checked the voltage output on a 1993 and 1996 Dakota with the stereo, headlights (with high-beams on), A/C turned on, wipers turned on, and with the blower motor set at high...voltage was as 12.6-12.8v. With the smaller diameter pulley from the 1997+ models, the voltage increased to 13.4-13.8v, thus giving you not only more power for your accessories...but also enough to keep the electronics (Sensors/PCM) at optimum voltage as well.
1992-1996 Alternator Pulley = 2.85"
1997-2003 Alternator Pulley = 2.47"
** Both are 7-rib and are easily exchanged **
Why you shouldn't O-Ring Cylinder Heads
Cylinder heads can be o-ringed but you'll need the matching block to make sure they're aligned properly. No production engine has perfectly aligned combustion chambers or bores so there will be inconsistencies in the exact alignment of the heads vs. block. The best way to o-ring (when using factory style gaskets) is either cutting a groove around the bore for a mechanical lock or using a wire - on the block. The block is much less prone to warping and won't distort slightly like cylinder heads when set at proper torque specs. If you want to use the o-ring and receiver groove, you'll need copper gaskets or composite gaskets that work with the o-ring and receiver grooves. You also need to make sure that the o-ring is not too close to the fire-ring on the head gasket. If it's too close, well...you can see what happens in the pictures below (this was with only 4# boost and only 10 miles down the road - no detonation either).
 (1) Passenger-Side Head Gasket: Blown cylinder (4-5# boost) - Notice O-Ring impression - Misaligned |
 (2) Passenger-Side Head Gasket: #2 Cylinder (Notice misaligned O-Ring and partially crushed fire-ring due to misalignment of O-Ring) |
 (3) Driver-Side Head Gasket: #4 (Notice the fire ring at the top of the cylinder - ring partially distorted due to misaligned o-ring) |
 (4) Same as #3 (Better View) |
 (5) Passenger-Side Head Gasket: #8 Blown (Fire Ring was crushed at top of cylinder - misalignment) |
Proper Methods for O-Ringing the block (No
receiver groove)
More Tips & Tricks coming soon...
